En Izakaya

Endless plates of the signature seared tofu and eggplant landing on tables are proof of a loyal following - and new Tokyo-trained chef Makoto Motoyama ensures there are still plenty of fresh ideas at this neat little shopfront. The dynamism of his hometown reveals itself in a 'mispacho', a chilled creamy miso broth with raw salmon cubes and shreds of fried shallot that arrives in a martini glass. It's as delicious as it is pretty. So too is a crispy yam-skin-coated tuna roll, fried but still vibrant pink in the middle, while a generous pile of soft-shell crab is a textural treat. Heavier dishes such as sticky pork belly and blackened cod with a tangle of squid tempura come out when they're ready - not necessarily when you are - in the Japanese pub style. It's all part of the fun, and owner Andy Gray is never far away for advice on a sake or Alsatian riesling. In the true Japanese way, detail is everything.