The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Esca Bimbadgen

Esca Bimbadgen
Esca BimbadgenSupplied

14/20

Modern Australian$$$

It's not simply the crisp linen, interesting artworks, open kitchen and sleek interior. 'Esca' means 'good food' in Latin, and Bimbadgen is the local indigenous word for 'good view'. And this place delivers on both fronts - hence the endless procession of wedding parties on the lawn below the open verandah. You, meanwhile, will trust the formal yet perky staff and order char-grilled yabby tails in white wine with gruyere and watercress, or perhaps a velvety rabbit terrine pocked with pistachio, and served with crisped pancetta and sweet capsicum relish. Crisp-skinned salmon is, at its heart, a perfect blush of pink, adorned with polenta, broccolini, roasted beetroot and a tart bearnaise. Braised beef rump is made to share, melting and flaky, with oyster mushrooms, brussels sprouts hearts and a glossy pomme puree. In the unlikely event that dessert still beckons, a banana split of cinnamon-spiked banana fritters, vanilla panna cotta and vivid raspberry ice-cream is terrific in method, taste and texture.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement