18/20
Contemporary$$$
Restrained, Scandinavian-influenced decor and floor-to-ceiling windows framing Kangaroo Point and Story Bridge views make this a serene spot to lunch, although we quite fancy the city lights and river traffic at night, too. Exquisite attention to detail has been paid to everything from the hand-thrown, slightly irregular pastel bowls, (no white crockery here) and earthy pottery plates to crisp napkins, replaced if you leave the table. The degustation-only menu changes daily and is delivered at well-spaced intervals. Minuscule cubes of scallop in buttermilk with split peas and intense dobs of Meyer lemon gel is both light and satisfying, while a beef calotte with horseradish-infused yoghurt and onion rings is a clever take on a classic. Sixty-six per cent cocoa ice-cream with a coconut/malty chocolate wafer invokes childhood Ovaltine nostalgia but it's the quenelle of Campari curds with orange and whey curd ice-cream, Campari crystals, sherbet and freeze-dried mandarin that prompt the fondest post-prandial reminiscing.
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