The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Esquire

River views on one side and the open kitchen to the other.
River views on one side and the open kitchen to the other.Supplied

18/20

Contemporary$$$

The menu’s simply a list of ingredients, so it’s the grown-up equivalent of Christmas morning, anticipating what clever treats await when dishes arrive in a seemingly endless flow. The warm, professional service and the Scandi-chic space with river views on one side and the open kitchen to the other, add to the sense of occasion. A slender white envelope contains two crisp leaves of air-dried beef and kimchi that dissolve on the tongue with a salty, tangy surprise. A dish of ‘popcorn’ plays tricks on your mind and mouth – ice-cream-like yet deliciously buttery and savoury. Slices of silky wagyu calotte – an unfamiliar cut – rest on jammy onion and thyme. Sweet, tender chunks of blue swimmer crab bathed in a glossy, creamy white corn and macadamia sauce is a dish bordering on sublime. There are impossibly light cocoa and chocolate ‘rocks’ to end, and a creamy confection of Campari and orange with a whizz-fizz-like popping powder that’ll make you feel like a kid again.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement