Esquire

The menu's simply a list of ingredients, so it's the grown-up equivalent of Christmas morning, anticipating what clever treats await when dishes arrive in a seemingly endless flow. The warm, professional service and the Scandi-chic space with river views on one side and the open kitchen to the other, add to the sense of occasion. A slender white envelope contains two crisp leaves of air-dried beef and kimchi that dissolve on the tongue with a salty, tangy surprise. A dish of 'popcorn' plays tricks on your mind and mouth - ice-cream-like yet deliciously buttery and savoury. Slices of silky wagyu calotte - an unfamiliar cut - rest on jammy onion and thyme. Sweet, tender chunks of blue swimmer crab bathed in a glossy, creamy white corn and macadamia sauce is a dish bordering on sublime. There are impossibly light cocoa and chocolate 'rocks' to end, and a creamy confection of Campari and orange with a whizz-fizz-like popping powder that'll make you feel like a kid again.