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Esquire

Esquire in Brisbane.
Esquire in Brisbane.Harrison Saragossi

18/20

Contemporary$$$

brisbanetimes.com.au Good Food Guide 2014/15

Picasso said: ‘Every child is an artist. The problem is how to remain an artist once he grows up.’ Chef Ryan Squires has clearly solved the quandary.

There is something delightfully playful underpinning this sophisticated, cutting edge restaurant. Watching a dining room full of well-heeled adults bite into popsicles of goats milk, sorrel, apple and toasted hazelnuts is immeasurably satisfying.

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Squire’s message is clear – fine dining can still be fun. A paper-thin sheet of dried and smoked buffalo, crunchy and chewy, is topped with a vibrant green mustard leaf vinaigrette, pops of rehydrated mustard seeds and a sweet orange gastrique. The symmetry of textures and flavours continues with brined Holmbrea chicken served with almond, garlic and rye paste, lovage puree, house-grown sprouts and anchovy dressing.

Cheese or dessert? Why choose when you can combine triple cream brie with a wedge of caramelised pear, horseradish shavings and white chocolate powder that dissolves in the mouth like sherbert.

Stay young!

And … Go for the expertly matched wines with the sommelier offering an encyclopaedic knowledge of each bottle presented.
Vibe … Industrial chic meets Nordic design overlooking the river and Story Bridge.
Best bit … The whole shebang including warm, efficient staff.
Worst bit … The acoustics.



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