est.

A stunning heritage dining room; a clubbish atmosphere; a conspiratorial sommelier well versed in the encyclopaedic wine list. This is one of Sydney's powerhouse dining venues, with prices to match. Chef Peter Doyle dazzles with Asian flourishes attuned to an Australian sensibility. Ocean trout sashimi with salty pops of roe and the gentle acid of verjuice jelly, or a zesty-sweet tumble of spanner crab with corn kernels, finger limes and mint, could both be his produce-driven calling cards. He's equally at home turning the dial towards Europe. roasted quail is matched with foie gras, nectarine and a lilting note of champagne jelly. There might be stumbles along the way, however. Non-inductees to the est. club might be left with the feeling that only some tables bask in the sunshine of their love, while an apparently over-baked apricot and chocolate galette was surprising at this level of dining. A crisp sorrel sorbet with rhubarb is a study in elegance and a better way to remember the est. experience.