Eureka 89

"How was the lamb, ma'am?" asked our waiter. "Lovely," I replied brightly because, really, there's nothing else to be said to such a query except, perhaps, "Nice rhyme this time."

The dutiful but pointless question is indicative of the culture at Eureka89, a high-rise restaurant with extraordinary views and a self-reflexive special occasion outlook that means people are called "ma'am" and "sir", and ma'am and sir will eat truffle, crayfish, champagne foam and foie gras, because that's how ma'am and sir will be sure they're having a fancy meal.

There's nothing inherently wrong with those ingredients (except perhaps foie gras, the rich liver of an overfed duck), but I think it's dated and unnecessary to have them trotted out one after another in a procession of self-conscious luxury.

If you come here, though, there's no avoiding it because there is just one way to dine on the 89th floor: book and pay ahead for a degustation dinner. Tuesday to Thursday you have the option of choosing either five or seven courses; Friday and Saturday, the seven-course menu is compulsory.

I don't have a problem with pre-payment per se; it's relaxing in some ways, but at Eureka89 it points to the fact that you're buying a ticket to an experience rather than heading out for an engaging and memorable night of hospitality. I paid for our drinks after the meal but the current eftpos arrangement entailed standing at the bar with a waiter at my shoulder explaining when I might punch in a tip. I didn't love that.

Anyway, to the good stuff. The view is great and daylight saving means you're likely to catch sunset, which is amazing. Staff are happy to escort you to the Skydeck one floor down so you can do a 360-degree perusal of the sparkly sprawl.

The dining room is comfortable and rather dim, good for canoodling and focusing on the view. Piano bar standards provide the soundtrack. The food, for the most part, is tasty and satisfying. The lamb was actually rather delightful, comprising pink, well-rested cutlet and lamb loin rolled with chicken and truffle farce. The duo of meats was topped by crisp kale leaves and underpinned by a painted stripe of nettle puree. A rich but light jus was poured at the table. It's straightforward but nicely done and ticks the red-meat-for-the-blokes box.

There's generosity in the offering of a crusty, freshly baked white loaf with plenty of salt-sprinkled butter; the amuse bouche (corn custard with cute crunch) and palate cleanser (blood orange jelly with ginger foam) were also good touches.

My favourite dish was the turned, roasted potato stuffed with taleggio custard, surrounded by buttered leeks and artichoke hearts: I'm all for luxury wrought from vegetables which is always easier when using one of the world's great cheeses.

The seafood plate was excellent, making a star of delicious Murray cod, roasted and crisp-skinned, with sweet morsels of lobster and a silky squid-ink-squiggled crayfish sauce playing decadent supporting roles.

A dessert of properly oozy chocolate fondant with burnt orange icecream is proof that the choc-orange combo is cliche for good reason.

Less successful dishes included another fish dish, a starter of kingfish carpaccio with seaweed fronds, little piles of roe and 19 dabs of avocado puree. It looked pretty, though it also looked like it wanted you to notice how hard it was working, and after all that fanfare the taste was underwhelming.

In his last job, at the Point, new consultant chef Justin Wise did a great job of bringing contemporary sensibilities to classic flavours and techniques. I sense he hasn't quite been given free rein here.

Eureka89 is obviously hitting a mark because the dining room is full of celebratory groups and dressed-up couples (she's texting her friends, "HHPY" – he hasn't proposed yet – and he's pointing down below and naming roads; later they're either pashing or avoiding eye contact).

But if the restaurant is to become a true culinary destination the function venue elements need to be shrugged off: I'd start with a menu that's more loose and lively, better cutlery, and more intuition and less process from the staff. Or not, because it ain't broke. Eureka89 isn't swimming in the fast-flowing stream of contemporary Melbourne hospitality but perhaps when you're 300 metres above the Yarra that need not be a priority.

THE LOW-DOWN
Best bit The view.
Worst bit The cutlery.
Go-to dish Taleggio-stuffed potato.

How we score

Of 20 points, 10 are awarded for food, five for service, three for ambience, two for wow factor.  
12 Reasonable 13 Solid and satisfactory 14 Good 15 Very good 16 Seriously good 17 Great 18 Excellent 19 Outstanding 20 The best of the best