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European

European, restaurant, Melbourne.
European, restaurant, Melbourne.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

The wood-panelled dining room, with its bentwood chairs and checkerboard floor, is an egalitarian space. Whether popping in for coffee in the morning or making a night of it with champagne and caviar, this Spring Street stalwart can oblige. Amiable waiters strike the right balance between professional and personable. The food, essentially classics with the odd adventurous tweak, follows suit. Try, perhaps, paper-thin beetroot carpaccio made tangy by pomegranate kernels and pickled radish, offset by a dollop of Woodside goat's curd and smoked walnuts, or a shredded cabbage salad with chunks of tender bug meat. Robust mains might include paella laden with chorizo, tiger prawns and mussels, or confit duck and mushroom pie with a spectacular bronze dome and rich mustard and prune sauce. Banana and date souffle, with its deep and dark caramel hit, makes a dazzling finish.

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