Fei Jai

Sesame prawn toasts, egg fried rice and banana fritters recall suburban Chinese restaurants of old. But this rather fancier Cantonese diner unapologetically proves there's a place for new-versioned old-fashioned favourites on smart inner-city menus. An intimate brasserie-like interior spills onto the pavement, making this a prime location for either a cosy night indoors or a long alfresco affair. Service lacked the momentum we've come to expect from Sydney's Chinese establishments, but the staff are knowledgeable and helpful. A pillowy crab omelette is touted as the signature dish, but braised eggplant and crab is delightfully silky, with a thick gelatinous broth that's generous in both size and flavour. Pork, prawn and mushroom-filled dumplings are light and savoury. And everyone's having salt-and-pepper calamari and crisp beef fillet with black vinegar, sesame and mango. Most of the dishes are best shared and half-serves are often an option. Fei Jai means 'fat boy', for good reason.