Fins

Fins shouldn't work, but it does. Everything seems incongruous, from the setting - slap-bang in a vast coastal resort development - to a wine list that would make a wine buff's heart flutter and the rigorously sourced seafood (hail the Ocean menu). But hold on, is that beef we spy? Yep, that's the Earth menu. Add an eclectic mix of couples, boisterous family groups and serious foodies, a casual tropical fit-out, and eagle-eyed waiters, and it's all a bit Alice in Wonderland. Fortunately, the food isn't. A creamy oyster sheathed in delicate tempura batter with pickled ginger is the next best thing to eating one raw. Ocean-sweet scallops touch earth with prosciutto, leeks and smoked tomatoes, while zesty riesling lifts mahi mahi into fish nirvana. And then there's the standout. fork-tender local beef with unctuous white miso butter, crunchy tempura enoki and chilli-laced greens. A whimsical rhubarb and young coconut bavarois makes a truly storybook ending.