First Class Lounge & Dining

Which is the better side of a goldfish bowl: safe in its confines, gazing out, or standing free outside, looking in? At First Class, the goldfish has a definite edge, peering through a giant pane of glass at the dramas and mayhem of the Brunswick Mall from the sanctuary of the dining room; possibly the most entertaining view in town. Inside is all unruffled calm and charming service with the very open kitchen vying for the diners' attention. A succinct menu (five small dishes, five large and a few ancillary) is designed to share, and two can happily work through a half-dozen plates. The star is a small offering of grilled ox tongue with wafers of shaved fennel and a silky horseradish cream; classic, unfussy but insightfully constructed. The obligatory pork belly comes with a puree of cauliflower, wedges of date and an unexpected (possibly obsolete) wedge of grilled gem lettuce. Three desserts cap things off nicely, but perhaps lack the lustre of the savoury dishes.