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Fish Face

Fish Face Article Lead - narrow
Fish Face Article Lead - narrowSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

Seafood$$$

Perfectly cooked, poshly presented beer-battered fish is the go at this beautifully run, shoebox-sized local. Served with hand-cut chips in a paper cone niftily supported by a bespoke stand and teamed with a creamy, house-made sauce tartare, these could just be the best fish 'n' chips in town. Chef Steve Hodges is renowned for his fanatical approach to seafood, and for the most part he doesn't disappoint. Prawn ravioli in a foamy, nage-like sauce is a study in technical perfection, while wafer-thin slices of Spanish mojama (cured tuna) and house-cured salt fish (whiting) make quite a statement in a warm, rocket-based salad, sauced with an oozy soft-poached egg. In the light of such fishy finesse, it was disappointing to encounter significantly underdone bar cod in an otherwise terrific Thai-style yellow curry. Ordering panna cotta with berries and crushed biscuits for dessert might seem unadventurous, but when it's this good, it's far from a cliche.

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