Fish Face

While Darlinghurst still misses Steve Hodges’ hole-in-the-wall fish-and-chipper, Double Bay can’t believe its luck, getting not only a fish-and-chipper of its own, but one capable of far more refinement and subtlety than mere batter and fries. At the front is a casual diner with stool-lined counter and high-rise tables; while out back, a spare, light, white dining room is another way of enjoying the superlative fish cookery of Hodges and precociously talented chef Josh Niland. Swimming beyond the safety flags of the trademark fish and chips and well-crafted sushi is immensely rewarding here, with a raw fish salad with cucumber, wakame, shiso and barbecued eel, say, or an aromatic yellow curry of fish and green papaya. Daily-changing fish specials might include a memorable crisp-skinned bass groper with grilled kale: do it. Stay for a smoked vanilla meringue with a creamy nectarine fool; not something you can find at your average fish-and-chipper.

And … Look for the tart of the day, cooling on the kitchen pass.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Rowdy and local up front; quieter out back.
Best bit Immaculate fish buying.
Worst bit They don’t do takeaway.