Fitzrovia

Fitzrovia manages to convey a farmers' market feel, thanks to a judicious use of rustic boards, locally sourced produce, lush displays of foliage, and a counter piled with pastries. The menu evolves throughout the day, from breakfasts of thick-cut bacon with gruyere potato cakes to a lunch of grilled chermoula chicken or slow-braised lamb shoulder. Following that, 'afternoon delights' (perhaps a ploughman's lunch, mezze plate, or peach, tomato and smoked almond salad) run from 3pm until dinner. That's when the kitchen kicks up a gear. Snacky bites like polenta chips with truffled parsley hit the spot, and the kitchen is confident with cold entrees such as a citrus-cured snapper panzanella. Some mains feel less successful. Prosciutto-wrapped chicken breast might be a bit bland, and gnocchi with mushrooms and goat's cheese could tend towards stodgy. Desserts are pleasingly reliable, with Brit-leaning trifle and Eton mess up for grabs.