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Food Society

Food Society
Food SocietySupplied

13.5/20

European$$

Without hand-painted folk furniture or embroidered textiles, there are no clues to Food Society's Eastern European accent - until you pick up the menu. Even before the entrees, there are pages of imported vodkas and beers and a lively conviviality that suggests these drinks sell. The share-style menu adds to that vibe - from the dumplings stuffed with shredded pork and strewn with smoky lardons and pickled red onion to a board of smallgoods and pickles including a winning spicy csabai. Cauliflower florets are expertly deep fried and dressed with a sweetish red wine vinegar reduction. Spice-infused roast duck has its richness cut with apple and watercress, though the melting beef cheek goulash with bright baby vegetables could have been more boldly seasoned. Desserts roam as far as Russia with pashka, a comforting mix of cream cheese, almond and shortbread, topped with tangy strawberry compote. There's bound to be a vodka match for that.

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