Four in Hand Dining Room

For more than 10 years, Colin Fassnidge has wonderfully brined, braised, poached, roasted and char-grilled all manner of meat cuts and offal, and he’s not letting up. A million-dollar refurbishment has lightened and widened the Four’s convivial dining room, switching more towards gastro-pub and less to fine dining. The tone crosses over to the food. Scampi is poached in salty ham hock broth, with potatoes, sea bananas and ice lettuce; soft, char-grilled lamb’s tongue pairs with crisped confit belly, mint jelly, radishes and cucumber for crunch. Mains include roasted suckling pig with parsnip, sprouts and dandelions - finer cuts augmented by a pot luck, no-waste braise - fancy some ear, snout or tail? Desserts showcase the season, perhaps poached quince with licorice, linseed crisps and parsnip ice-cream, richly savoury-sweet in autumn colours and flavours. So, here’s to the next decade, and the 2025 re-furb (in 10,400 pigs time!).

And … An extra private room for whole-pig dinners among friends.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Cheery gastro-pub with serious food.
Best bit The refurb has enhanced the buzz.
Worst bit Plates and plating don’t always wow.