15/20
Foveaux is cleverly positioned at the accessible end of Sydney fine dining. The prices undercut most gastro-temples; the restrained room is smart enough without pushing any major design buttons; and the service is professional and attentive without sweeping you off your feet. Chef-owner Darrell Felstead has a CV loaded with Sydney and international fine-diners, and some of his detailing on the plate is highly technical. When it works, it can be a piece of edible art, as in a delectable confit duck spring roll propped beside smoked duck, lush tamarind puree and charcoal oil. When it doesn't, it can feel overworked, as in a tough sirloin with rich wasabi cream nudging neat, braised brisket. Roasted mulloway is a classic, perfectly partnered with a caponata vinaigrette. The chef, who lists 'childhood' and 'mundane' experiences among his menu inspirations, is playful with desserts, from banana ice-cream to an adventurous concoction of thyme parfait served with blueberry sorbet and dried lemon sponge.
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