The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Foveaux Street Dining

Foveaux Article Lead - narrow
Foveaux Article Lead - narrowSupplied

Good Food hat15/20

Foveaux is cleverly positioned at the accessible end of Sydney fine dining. The prices undercut most gastro-temples; the restrained room is smart enough without pushing any major design buttons; and the service is professional and attentive without sweeping you off your feet. Chef-owner Darrell Felstead has a CV loaded with Sydney and international fine-diners, and some of his detailing on the plate is highly technical. When it works, it can be a piece of edible art, as in a delectable confit duck spring roll propped beside smoked duck, lush tamarind puree and charcoal oil. When it doesn't, it can feel overworked, as in a tough sirloin with rich wasabi cream nudging neat, braised brisket. Roasted mulloway is a classic, perfectly partnered with a caponata vinaigrette. The chef, who lists 'childhood' and 'mundane' experiences among his menu inspirations, is playful with desserts, from banana ice-cream to an adventurous concoction of thyme parfait served with blueberry sorbet and dried lemon sponge.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement