Foveaux Street Dining

Here are all the hallmarks of serious dining. fine food and finesse. But they're presented in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, charmed by warm, friendly service, that's ultimately So Sydney. The unfussy setting helps. bare brick walls, contemporary art, comfortable high-backed chairs, soft colours, double-clothed tables and reasonable noise levels. And what may read as complex, even pretentious, on the menu makes perfect sense on the plate. Mushroom milk - milk infused with mushroom earthiness, studded with crisp rice - provides a creamed counterpoint to intensely flavoured roast mackerel. Fanned slices of just-pink venison leg are traditionally presented with pickled red cabbage and spaetzle (noodles), while a tile of roasted swede with asparagus puree, though not sizeable, is wholly satisfying. Chocolate mousse with a subtle chestnut gelato and aptly named coffee 'cloud' ends a seriously relaxing evening. And next time, how about a whole bowl of that amuse bouche hummus soup?