Franco Choo's

Rustic, raucous and packed to the rafters most nights, this tiny trattoria is dishing up honest, home-style food, warm hospitality and well-paced service. It's snug but stylish informal dining. Good value, too. Mirrors add a spacious feel to rough-hewn timber tables, stools and bistro chairs. Chef Steven Choo's own striking wall-size photograph of a Piaggio three-wheeler laden with wooden cases at Sicily's Catania market inspired the recycled crate shelving lined with pedigree produce above the bar. Vibrant paintings by musician Kavisha Mazzella hang near the short blackboard menu. Two entrees, mains and desserts celebrate Calabria. Start with hearty char-grilled eggplant and pecorino involtini (rolls) doused in sweet, chunky sugo or juicy Berkshire pork subtly spiced with fennel seeds, tossed through fusilli and ricotta. Move on to slow-roasted Milawa free-range chicken and Dutch cream potatoes in marsala sauce or braised Gippsland lamb in robust borlotti bean ragu. To finish, fluffy zeppole (like doughnuts) on thick, eggy custard or green tomato jam tart. Buonissimo.