Fratelli Paradiso

It's no bookings, no individual menus, and often no free tables at this perennially hip Italian joint. But it's worth the wait. If you're seated outside and can't see the blackboard menu, or don't understand the Italian dish descriptions, waiters will rattle off a full explanation. (They don't rattle off prices, however, so check or the bill may be a surprise.) There's an eye-catching mural featuring busts and other Italiana, but attention immediately diverts to the food. The signature fried calamari is pale but has good crunch. Tuna carpaccio is pleasantly soft and enhanced with the zing of lemon mayonnaise, sweet black olives and pickled celery. Pork sausage ragu with saffron risotto is rich, so good to share. Spaghetti tossed with scampi meat, baby tomatoes and garlic was a little oily but lovely in its subtlety. Cocoa-dusted tiramisu displays the perfect ratio of sponge to mascarpone. A swirl of chocolate mousse is superfluous, but not wasted. It's all part of the charm.