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Fu Manchu

Fu Manchu
Fu ManchuSupplied

13.5/20

Asian$$

Formerly a diminutive diner on Victoria Street, Fu Manchu moved to bigger digs in 2012 and revamped its menu. It may have lost some fans who treasured their cheap takeaways, but Fu Manchu's latest incarnation entices a new set of Darlo darlings with its regularly changing Chinese-Nonya menu and moody dark timber and marble vibe. The lighter side of Chinese cooking is showcased with pillowy prawn and scallop gow gee, gently salty pipis in a clean chicken and ginger broth, and steamed pink trout, simply dressed with soy, shallots and chilli. Malaysian and Indonesian curries satiate those seeking comfort food, although a beef rendang needed more stove time to develop its flavour and sticky tenderness. Chinese tea is the best way to finish, but if you're craving something sweet, a mango agar agar pudding is refreshing. Service can be shaky when the place is busy (often later at night), but buzz it does and with good reason.

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