16/20
Contemporary$$$
‘Live each day as if it’s your last’, they say. Live life to the full with some of Sydney’s most talked-about dishes at Grant King’s quirky culinary playground. Consider butternut soup perfectly formed into six extraordinary ‘liquefied gnocchi’ spheres, ready to burst, and bathed by mushroom consomme. Or edible crisped scales, elevating a jewfish fillet to hero status, with a smoked potato puree and calamari cracker. Three years on, playfulness, colour and texture still abound in King’s triumph of laboratory-meets-kitchen. While not every dining aspect is refined (the minimalist elliptical room can be a little dark and soulless, and service patchy), there’s plenty that’s entertaining. And when an extraordinary chocolate, honeycomb and vanilla sphere arrives, break it open, enjoy the oozing extravagance, sip a passito, and be glad there’s a whole lotta living going on.
And ... Book fast if King repeats his Game of Thrones feasts.
THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Medieval playfulness on modern Scandi stage.
Best bit Famous dishes persevered with, and perfected.
Worst bit Prices can be high.
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