Gelbison

Gelbison is perpetually busy, with groups of locals and tourists chatting noisily as friendly waiters deliver trays of crispy wood-fired pizza - topped with just the right amount of ingredients - and mountainous twirls of pasta. The beige and brown decor is a little daggy, but when it comes to food, Gelbison's got the goods. Mussels - with tomato or parsley and lemon - are a popular starter. The choice broadens for pizza, with around 30 varieties; Reggiano, with hot salami, artichoke, provolone cheese and basil, is a highlight. You'll also find plenty of pasta options (such as spaghetti with clams or gnocchi with gorgonzola) plus chicken and veal mains.