Gills Diner

Props to Con Christopoulos. Every eatery he has put his hand to, from Degraves Espresso Bar to the European, comes equipped with a fitout that balances industry and soul. And Gills is no exception. Stretching along the namesake lane, this former garage takes in a cafe, bakery and a spacious dining room of glass and tile, with a soundtrack courtesy of a turntable spinning familiar tunes. Gills' blackboard menu proffers dishes of style and substance, marrying Italianate technique with local produce. This is exemplified by the kitchen's treatment of seafood, whether a caper-studded salmon gravlax with chive creme fraiche, rich spanner crab risotto or a cut of kingfish (crisp on top, moist beneath) served on a bed of coriander-flecked vegetables. There are always first-rate pasta dishes (pea, ricotta and mint ravioli; plump potato gnocchi), and smashing desserts (perhaps churros with chocolate dipping sauce), all administered by casually clad, attentive staff.