Giuseppe Arnaldo & Sons

The Italians invented share-plates long before they became fashionable, and GAS works best if you have a crowd along to sample widely - the menu presented not in the usual entree-main convention but as a single sheet with 15 sections, the idea being you choose a little of what you like. Expect simple dishes done well: a basket of super-crisp school prawns; lovely tagliatelle with pancetta all'amatriciana; or a summery salad with witlof, anchovies and asiago cheese. Of the seven steaks, go for the magnificent bistecca fiorentina covered in salsa (to share) or the minute steak piled high with watercress. The walk-in crowd of casino-bound fun-seekers makes for a buzzy atmosphere despite the dark tiles and staff in lab coats, and while we get that it's a 'casual' affair (cutlery in holders at your table, menu placemats), service can have patchy moments. To keep the bill down, order cafefully - it's easy to get carried away.