Gladioli

A tiny hamlet 20 minutes' drive from Geelong yields this regional treasure: a forward-thinking restaurant showcasing the refined food of local hero Matt Dempsey (ex-Pettavel and Baveras). The spruced-up Victorian weatherboard provides a neutral slate for Dempsey's elegant presentation as he mixes classic European flavours with contemporary kitchen tricks. Pink-centred medallions of duck with perfectly seasoned cooking juices, cherry puree, baby leek and tiny pickled turnips give a modern twist to a classic combination; pan-fried trumpeter with linguine-soft ribbons of translucent calamari, baby onions, mussels and seaside succulents on caramelised onion puree is a precise juggling of multiple elements. The rare over-stretch - maybe gummy sheets of tapioca that don't flatter their prawn and mayo-bound picked crab fillings - is lessened when followed by satisfyingly conventional desserts. Finish with strawberries and thickly textured balsamic foam on white chocolate panna cotta. With personable waiters and a casual charm, Gladioli is worth the journey.