Glass Brasserie

Chef Luke Mangan spreads himself more thinly than his king salmon sashimi with a far-flung fleet of restaurants both on land (Jakarta, Singapore, Surfers Paradise, Tokyo and Waterloo), in the air (Virgin Australia) and at sea (P&O Cruises). And yet Glass remains totally ship-shape, in all its gossamer-draped and open-kitchen glory, with a well-conceived menu as international as Mangan's edible empire. Divided into tapas, entrees, mains and 'off the grill', there's something for everyone who can afford it, from manchego, bacon and potato croquetas, an entree of double-baked gruyere souffle with walnut and microleaf salad to a classic steak tartare mixed at the table. Mains include steamed barramundi with veal shin ravioli, and spiced lamb rack with sheep's yoghurt, figs and leeks, as well as a solid range of steaks for the suits. Desserts delight, such as a delectable and droll deconstruction of orange, lemon and mango cheesecake. In a city still curiously short of world-class hotel restaurants, Glass smashes it.