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Golden Century

Golden Century Article Lead - narrow
Golden Century Article Lead - narrowSupplied

14/20

For sheer variety of marine life, this late-night favourite of top city chefs challenges Sydney Aquarium with its display of live abalone, giant lobsters, parrot fish, barramundi, and implausibly large king crabs. Owner Eric Wong is a constant presence, helping younger and more wayward members of his huge waiter brigade to stay focused. While upstairs is calmer and quieter, the real fun takes place on the hectic first level, where staff try desperately - and not always successfully - to keep up with the demanding hordes. Short soup is extraordinarily fine-flavoured with ethereally light prawn wontons, while pork spareribs slathered in XO sauce are positively addictive. Ultra-fresh barramundi steamed with ginger and shallots is subtle and sumptuous. By comparison, san choi bao and dim sum were both workmanlike - or should that be wokmanlike? Finish on watermelon and Chinese pastries and vow to save up for the glossy roast pigeon, or maybe one of those king crabs.

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