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Golden Fields

Golden Fields, restaurant, St Kilda, Melbourne.
Golden Fields, restaurant, St Kilda, Melbourne.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Modern Asian$$$

Golden Fields has a come-one-come-all ease, able to deliver a quick, breezy lunch in the slanted sunlight as comfortably as an epic unfurling dinner after dark. This slim, minimal room, with its marble bar and white tiles underscored by dashes of kitsch like a gleaming golden roller-skate, sets the scene for the scintillating, Asian-influenced menu. Grilled octopus sits amid fiery, crisp kimchi beansprouts, while cold, shredded chicken is kept cool with fat slices of house-made rice noodle and earthy sesame paste. The famous lobster rolls with Kewpie mayo remain as witty and luxurious as ever, while twice-cooked duck, as crusty as a meteorite, is succulent underneath, the crunchy skin lending wild texture once it's tucked into steamed bread and dipped in chilli-spiked vinegar. All dishes are designed to share - the spectacularly aromatic lamb shoulder with meat that melts off the bone is a classic example - except for desserts like the cubed peanut butter parfait with salted caramel. No one is that egalitarian.

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