GOMA Restaurant

The Gallery of Modern Art could be very well be sitting on a golden goose; not only does their restaurant have one the best outlooks in the city, with floor-to-ceiling glass framing the river and urban panorama, but it boasts one of our hottest young chefs, Josue Lopez. Book a window table and take in the views while sampling dishes from a menu where classic technique meets modern creativity. The occasional incursion deeper into modernist cuisine is not always a unanimous success, however; both a crisp, dried tomato skin garnish and tobacco ice-cream on a Valrhona chocolate delice provoked considerable debate. Other dishes, including a rack of lamb with celeriac, bordelaise and a nettle puree or a spring-pretty ocean trout with peas, petals and fennel are faultless, both in construction and presentation. With a menu changing fortnightly, dessert choices might include a blueberry panna cotta with juniper berries and wood sorrel providing a slightly savoury note, or the almost (in)famous tobacco ice-cream.