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Gorski & Jones

14/20

Italian$$

You enter and it's all happening at once. Customers and staff swish between tables, earnest chefs work the open kitchen, and the long marble bar is lined with people propped on bentwood stools. There's a charcuterie cabinet behind the bar, and a meat slicer in the front window, indicating that the team takes cured goods seriously. A simple menu listing of pork and veal meatballs is lifted by a chorus line of ingredients including orange and lemon zest, currants, pinenuts and cinnamon. Suckling pig night is a regular event, offering a generous portion of tender meat with sturdy crackling, balanced with fennel and apple salad. House-made pasta might be an intricate rotolo of spinach, ricotta and pumpkin bathed in burnt butter and sage sauce. In a meal marked by powerful flavours, even panna cotta gets to go to the ball, given a tantalising makeover with squacquerone, a soft, slightly tangy Italian cheese.

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