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Great Northern Hotel

14/20

There's a neo-hunting-lodge vibe to the Great Northern these days with its vast fireplace topped by a stuffed stag's head, faux-mediaeval frescoes and a creeper-covered beer garden with a well-aged birdcage (sans bird). Shoot for the grill-your-own steak option - at least you'll know it's 'perfectly' cooked. Elsewhere are dishes such as a chicken burrito that unfortunately turns up as an over-stuffed pub attempt at Mexican, but a lamb cutlet with salsa verde fares better. The house special of coconut-covered king prawns is also OK. The accompanying salad bar is fresh, clean and well presented, with a wide choice of sides. Kiddies eat for free at the weekend.

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