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Green Papaya

Green Papaya Article Lead - narrow
Green Papaya Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13.5/20

Thai$$

Thai and Balinese cuisines are the focus at Green Papaya. Coolly minimal, the restaurant is gently lit and staff welcoming and pleasant. The concise menu lists mains according to country, and an additional page highlights seasonal offerings. Exotic and visually striking, neat parcels of pandanus chicken unfurl to release the scent of white pepper, coriander and garlic. The mixed entree, perfect for the indecisive, promises a sampling of Thai specialties, but lacked the zing and freshness anticipated. A highlight is Balinese rendang sapi - a mild beef curry with coconut and candlenut - complex and aromatic, its roti accompaniment perfect for mopping leftover sauce. Cashews atop the pink flesh, coriander and green papaya in the red poached salmon salad are visually arresting, but up against the rendang, it's an also-ran. As the restaurant fills, service can become a little hit and miss but all is forgiven when smiling staff offer the palm sugar cake, a sticky finale with icy pineapple sorbet cutting its sweetness perfectly.

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