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Grossi Florentino Grill

Grossi Florentino Grill, restaurant, Melbourne.
Grossi Florentino Grill, restaurant, Melbourne.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$$

There's a sense of grand European style about the Flo's Deco-inspired Grill, with its mirrored timber-panelled walls, close-set linen-swathed tables and picture windows. More lively and less formal than upstairs, this is where deals are brokered, cases deliberated and policy debated over Tuscan-influenced cucina. Wine-savvy waiters glide the floor delivering beautiful ingredients cooked simply and expertly. Start with antipasti then maybe a tumble of al dente spaghettini flecked with mud crab, heirloom tomatoes, chilli and garlic; or house-made trofie (twist) pasta, green beans and kipflers smothered in rich basil pesto. The day's rotisserie special might arrive with a refreshingly simple borlotti bean salad. Prime cuts of highly marbled wagyu and dry-aged angus, delicately flavoured spatchcocked poussin and 10-hour slow-cooked veal spareribs are all fired on la griglia to juicy, tender perfection. Dolce? An airy mousse-like tiramisu strewn with crushed dark Valrhona chocolate is a bittersweet sinfonia.

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