14/20

Hako

310 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, VIC

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Hako Article Lead - narrow

Hako has evolved with quiet distinction from a buzz-worthy laneway bolthole into a comfortably familiar piece of CBD furniture, perhaps no longer as hip but still happening. Its dark timber floor, whitewashed walls and rows of chunky ornamental sake bottles express a stripped-back sense of style that is ageing well, while waitstaff show cool composure but are never too cool. The menu is built around modern Japanese drinking food, but with a bow to culinary tradition. Novel izakaya-style morsels abound, perhaps crumbed pork fillet with sweet-sour tomato and fuji apple puree, or piquant chicken fingers filled with mentaiko roe and shiso leaf with dipping mayo. Slow-cooked beef ribs are as warming as thick socks, the fall-apart meat and soft carrot half-submerged in sticky sweet soy and peppercorn sauce. Bountiful moriawase is loaded with delectable sushi and velvety sashimi. Dessert choices are more minimal than the decor.

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310 Flinders Ln, Melbourne, VIC

  • Cuisine - Japanese
  • Prices - Small dishes $11, large dishes $25 Desserts $7
  • Chef(s) - Masahiro Horie
  • Owners - Masahiro & Ji-ah Horie
  • Cards accepted - AMEX, Mastercard, Visa, EFTPOS
  • Opening Hours - Mon-Fri noon-2.30pm, Mon-Wed 5.30pm-9.30pm, Thurs-Sat 5.30pm-late
  • Seats - 60
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