Hanoi Quan

You go to Ha Noi Quan to be bossed about. And for the citrus yellow painted wall, crowded cabinets of knick-knacks, gilded ornaments, wooden carvings on the walls, stack of tissue boxes in the corner and the sense you’re eating in someone’s kitchen. Portions are huge, so bring an appetite. Bun cha, grilled beef with vermicelli and plenty of herbage, has a clean, simple flavour. Salt-and-pepper tofu is delicious, strewn with a green onion, salt and pepper relish. There’s little finesse in a chicken salad with a far too sweet dressing, but it doesn’t seem to matter. There’s way too much else to enjoy.