Happy Boy

There's nothing extraneous at Happy Boy - no flower- or micro-herbed garnished plates, no elaborate menu descriptions and a modest entry and pared-back decor. But this unset stage offers the opportunity for the food to stand solo in the spotlight and sing - which it does with gusto.

It's simple enough stuff, designed for tossing back with a Tsing Tao beer or spice-friendly wine, but the complexity imbued through the clever layering of spice makes sure it hits the high notes. Start with pork and prawn potstickers, in an umami-rich and spicy broth.

"Fish fragrant" eggplant comes as firm glossy diamonds bathed in chilli oil- a pinch of sesame seeds and spring onions the only accompaniment required.

A rustic earthenware bowl is filled with quail eggs dipped in enough Sichuan-peppered batter to temporarily anesthetise the tongue while nuggets of chong qing chicken nested in a bed of chilli look intimidating but are surprisingly tame.

For those wary of chilli, try the red braised pork belly, which is fatty and unctuous, or the mild, sweet xian jiang cumin lamb.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe: Secret spice-lovers' club
Pro tip: Don't sit at the banquettes unless you're particularly short - they're too high for the tables.
Drinks: Short, engaging and changing verbal list of spice-friendly wine and beer.