Hare & Grace

Hop up the stairs, through the terrace and bar, and into the eatery, as it is called, a whimsical mixture of rabbit burrow and rusticity, with the tree-branches ceiling, heavy recycled tables, bluestone walls and comfortable armchairs. Then add gastronomic smarts. Raymond Capaldi’s cooking has tended towards ultra-contemporary, but has settled into an engaging blend of classic and modern, presented with flair. The menu changes regularly and is supplemented by a small printed list of the day’s specials. A starter of sweet wafer topped with dense sweetcorn cream, smoked tomato, smoked salmon and roe is a bright and appetising combination of sweet and smoky; braised beef is a model of its kind; and a special of grilled barramundi comes perfectly cooked, served with a pot of fiery chimichurri. Or play it straight with a steak (there’s a choice of three) or a giant wagyu burger. Dessert might be a version of trifle, with sponge, tahini cream, perfect blackberry jelly and berries. Excellent service. 

And … Great bar with its own menu.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Smart rustic. 
Best bit Eccentricity meets fine dining.
Worst bit Closed weekends, except for functions.