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Harry's Bondi

Candice Chung
Candice Chung

Beachside eatery: The minimalist fit-out at Harry's Bondi.
Beachside eatery: The minimalist fit-out at Harry's Bondi.James Alcock

Modern Australian$$

Once in a while, even the keenest brunch-goer can't help but wonder: how many different ways can one consume bread and eggs before the sight of oozing yolks on toasted carbohydrate no longer excites?

It's a challenge chef Bryan O'Callaghan​ (ex Tilbury Hotel) knows all too well. In fact, it's his desire to breathe new life into these breakfast staples that underpins the direction of O'Callaghan's menu in the newly renovated Harry's Bondi.

Previously known as Harry's Espresso, the beachside eatery has had a significant transformation. The site of this slick, 80-seater restaurant was once a convenience store, before being converted into a neighbourhood cafe by owners Chris Karvelas​ and Harry Lambropoulos​ way back in 1997.

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The blueberry and ricotta hotcake.
The blueberry and ricotta hotcake.James Alcock

Its latest expansion, completed in April, involved absorbing its neighbouring laundromat and gaining a new, duck-egg blue modernist sheen thanks to the minimalist fit-out by Tina Cha from Guru Projects.

O'Callaghan's menu redesign has plenty of surprises with no pretensions. Eggs can be ordered made the usual ways, but they are also served coddled or crumbed and rolled in more adventurous ingredients. Bread suppliers change every month to keep things interesting for toast enthusiasts. On our visit, the sourdough and pastries come from Redfern's artisan baker Breadfern.

All baked goods – including cronuts from Inner West darling Brewtown Newtown – are available for "grab and go" at the restaurant's buzzing kiosk. The nutty Five Senses coffee may have something to do with the long takeaway queue, with nearly 700 cups sold on an average Saturday.

Crispy rolled egg with black beans and chorizo.
Crispy rolled egg with black beans and chorizo.James Alcock
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The sweet tooth from our group kicks things off with a strawberry jam milkshake, which turns out to be unusually thick and velvety. The only downside –  it is near impossible to sip daintily from a regular straw, which my friend soon abandons in favour of gulping it down like a lager. O'Callaghan later explains the texture comes from the housemade jam, which contains chia seeds with gelatine that give the shake more body.

Most sweet treats follow a similarly healthy approach. The blueberry and ricotta hotcake, for example, is flavoured by organic maple syrup and a colourful mix of toasted coconut shards, strawberries and tangy lemon balm. We are taken by the fluffiness of the batter, which reminds me of the French dessert clafoutis. This is due to the clever use of egg white, which O'Callaghan whisks into the batter just before the giant disc goes into the oven and is baked until golden.

Other dishes show similar attention to detail. The three-day-cider-cured ocean trout comes with a coddled egg (slow cooked at 67 degrees for 25 minutes), crunchy shaved fennel, furls of zucchini and ruby grapefruit for a bright flavour and colour contrast.

Save room for the chia cocunut pudding.
Save room for the chia cocunut pudding.James Alcock

The more substantial crispy rolled egg is a soft boiled egg crumbed and deep-fried for a crunchy, scotch-egg-like crust. Sitting on a bed of braised black beans, spicy chorizo and a scattering of avocado and cherry tomato, it's comfort food at its best.

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Since breakfast is served all day, one can always dip into long-lunch territory with a plate of perfectly seared (though slightly under-seasoned) scallops with pops of pomegranate and parsnip puree, or treat yourself to a tall Coorong beef burger with sweet potato fries.

Whatever you do, save room for the coconut chia pudding, a rich, creamy concoction that shouldn't be a daytime-only treat. Sometimes it takes a little effort to reignite one's love for breakfast, and a weekend trip to Harry's is a good start.

THE LOW-DOWN
THE PICKS Blueberry and ricotta hotcake, crispy rolled egg, coconut chia pudding, strawberry jam milkshake
THE COFFEE Five Senses
THE LOOK Bright, modern 80-seater with a designer polish and toddler-friendly space and al fresco seating.
THE SERVICE Fast and friendly.

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Candice ChungCandice Chung is the former editor of Daily Life.

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