Chinese$$
This is the spot for old-school Cantonese or rip-snorting yum cha that draws queues around the block. There are fish tanks, big serves and respectable prawn toast with sticky plum sauce. Pork san choi bao has smoky wok breath and crunch from celery dice. Green beans are fried with belachan, dry shrimp and pork mince, retaining bite and brilliance. Stir-fried beef with cashews has a cornflour gleam about it without glug, and the crisp-skin chicken is bang on. There’s MSG in the salt and pepper mix with that and perhaps elsewhere but, hey, this is old school.
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