I Carusi

Enter I Carusi's pleasant fug of oven-warmed air, aromatic with yeast and garlic, and find stiff white tablecloths on crammed-together tables, flowers and lamplight. Basic antipasti (roasted peppers and zucchini, a plate of prosciutto and sopressa) precede the main event: pizza. The bubbled crusts are chewy and crunchy in the right places, and are topped with tart, sweet, slightly chunky sugo. I Carusi's just-right toppings include porcini with prosciutto; fior di latte, prawns and chilli; and gorgonzola and sauteed leeks. They make a dessert appearance, too: pizzetta topped with dark chocolate and pear, or banana and honey.