16/20
An iconic restaurant overlooking Australia's most iconic beach. Icebergs has the wow factor all sewn up, yet it can't be accused of any laurel-resting. Maurice Terzini's surfside flagship refuses to date, thanks to an easy-breezy Club Med vibe and food that's neither too worked nor too naked. Spaghetti with tiny clams and baby zucchini in a garlicky olive oil is the very model of Italian restraint; a socialite-thin frittata of shaved black truffle is luxed to the max with melting orbs of taleggio. The seafood focus embraces the spectacular location, from briny-perfect oysters to a fat tranche of pan-fried trumpeter with a sprightly tomato passata, but the meat route also delivers rewards, such as a golden-crusted pork cutlet with a bitter salad of wilted radicchio and chicory pesto. To finish, a stand-alone little chocolate pudding oozes its insides into a rubble of chocolate-covered honeycomb. The staff has lifted its game too, to match Icebergs' ineffable beachside charm.
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