16/20
Icebergs is a distillation of sunshine, surf, buzzing Vespas, bronze limbs and the lazy insouciance of the Amalfi coast. Sneakered waiters flutter around guests sunk deep into comfortable teal-cushioned chairs and everyone enjoys a view: by day, the startling golden crescent of Bondi Beach and, at night, sparkling lights and inky black. The classic trio of tomato, buffalo mozzarella and garden-green salsa verde bursts with seasonal perfection. Simple. Delicious. Better still, spaghetti Amalfitana, with zucchini, lemon, broad bean, mint, garlic and chilli, is a tangle of zippy flavours. Fish, whole or filleted, grilled or roasted, is a signature. Whole snapper doesn’t need embellishment, holding its own against the puttanesca and sardine sauces on the side, while roast mulloway revels in a medley of fresh Italian aromats. Cannoli, filled with barely sweet ricotta and vibrant candied orange, is the taste of eternal summer.
And ... You can experience Icebergs at home; ask about the catering service.
THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Amalfi coast meets Aussie beach.
Best bit Location, location, location.
Worst bit Cheek-by-jowl tables.
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