il baretto

After a spell out of the limelight, this one-time Italian darling of the Surry Hills set is now very much back in favour. The space is still tight, the noise level is still high and the menus still handwritten, but there's a fresh buzz to the place as newbies begin to discover what seasoned regulars have long known. There are plenty of Italian staples, from bruschetta to pasta and risotto, but each section is peppered with one or two new combinations. Fresh slivers of beef carpaccio deliver the right balance of olive oil and vinegar, while grilled pecorino with spinach and honey cleverly marries sweet and salty in a smoky, satisfying entree. Go beyond the signature pappardelle with duck ragu or spaghetti vongole, and opt for luscious prawn and asparagus risotto, lifted with a hit of intense prawn bisque. Desserts are more limited, but then, everyone just orders the vanilla panna cotta anyway.