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Il Centro

Il Centro has been charming diners for decades.
Il Centro has been charming diners for decades.Supplied

15.5/20

Italian

Il Centro has been charming diners for so many decades now, you might wonder what its reputation is feeding off – the casual grace of its riverside position? Its vicinity to the powerbrokers of the financial district? Not at all. The food might not be avant garde, but it’s very, very good, as the large number of frequent diners will attest. Chef Catherine Anders brings freshness and surprise to her creations, from a seemingly simple squid ink risotto with scallops and pickled fennel, to the textural adventure of Moreton Bay bugs with oyster mushrooms, chestnuts, gnocchi and the most surprising sauce made of sweet corn. Il Centro’s sand crab lasagne, rich and meltingly creamy, is worth a trip alone. Don’t forget to seek out sommelier Shawn Gomes’s guidance in your wine selection; his suggestions are astute and sensitive. And make time for a souffle for dessert; passionfruit, strawberry, no matter; they’re among the best in town.

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