Il Cugino Pizzeria

Authentically Italian in the borderline-grimy, red-lino-tablecloth sense, Il Cugino is a family-run, no-frills pizzeria that wants nothing more than to see you well fed as fast as humanly possible. It's a tiny space with Italian coastal scenes adorning the walls; a pizza-making area occupies almost half of the main dining room. The good, solid range of pizzas on offer falls between the wafer-like 'leggera' and thicker Neapolitan-style crusts. Pasta, save the fiddly penne, is handmade in-house; carbonara is smooth, buttery and large. Service is speedy and cheerful, with much chatting, whistling, menu advice and flexibility: prawn fettuccini can become an outstanding all-chilli affair on request and without complaint. But pizza remains the hero.