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Ilona Staller

Ilona Staller, restaurant, Balaclava, Melbourne.
Ilona Staller, restaurant, Balaclava, Melbourne.Supplied

13.5/20

Contemporary$$

From the chic '60s-inspired interior and banquette seating to the generous plates and dazzling upstairs cocktail bar, Ilona Staller is a funky addition to Melbourne hospitality's middle ground - that space between formica and white tablecloths. This is a place for good meals and good times, where an upbeat soundtrack is reflected in the spicy tomato base of wagyu meatballs, and the tang of a crunchy waldorf salad beneath finely sliced pork belly. Pasta, gnocchi and risotto also appear, along with a handful of mains, such as a blue-eye fillet with a rocket and mascarpone raviolo. The food here is not overly refined, but it's plentiful and tasty and if there are a few miss-hits, they are easily forgotten amid the smart service and sweet finales, particularly a plate of can't-refuse-'em petits fours, including a mini lemon meringue pie that's sunshine on the plate. They even make kids welcome, offering a $10 meal deal if they come by 6.30pm.

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