Iori

What a delight to find a low-key Japanese restaurant that uses its noodle. Iori serves up seriously fresh, no-frills, made-to-order authentic food in a casual, utilitarian space spiked up with sharp service. On a Friday night the crowd is staunchly bohemian and the room has a real buzz. Sit cross-legged on a tatami mat to enjoy one of head chef Kaz Kagawa's signature entrees: inside-out dragon rolls filled with prawn tempura and a whammy of wasabi, or bara arai - flawlessly fresh barramundi sashimi with a whisper of lemon sauce and Japanese mustard. Follow up with a big, glistening bowl of kaisen nabe, deftly sliced seafood in a velvety miso broth with a bowl of ponzu (citrus soy) on the side to make it zing; or maybe sweet, crisp and tender tempura soft-shell crab in salt-dusted golden batter. For dessert, green tea mousse and lychee jelly is every bit as pleasing as it looks.