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Italy 1

Italy 1 Article Lead - narrow
Italy 1 Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13.5/20

Italian$$

This sepia-toned, plump-cushioned restaurant has been given a fresh start with a view to pulling it back to its heyday. After a bumpy change of guard that shook a few loyal locals and temporarily closed its doors, chef and 10-year Italy 1 veteran Darren Venn has reopened his first love with a gentle polish of the dark timbers and a determination to return to the relaxed bistro concept that industry pioneers Geoff Slattery and Rick Davis created here more than 15 years ago. So the roast duck is a perfection of crisp skin and tender meat on radicchio, pear and walnuts; the calamari a soft golden tangle on a bed of rocket and aioli; and the tiramisu is more lushly alcoholic than ever. It's same-same but better under Venn's loving care, with sassy choices like pork belly or barramundi on the specials list. Glossy fior di burrata, oozing beside warm pear in crisp prosciutto, is Italy 1 on a plate.

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